Over the last few years, the terms ‘old money’ ‘stealth wealth’ and ‘quiet luxury’ have been inescapable in menswear. For the uninitiated, they refer to the type of clothes favoured by those with generational wealth; garments that put quality, craftsmanship and subtlety above flaunting logos. Think of it as a sartorial embodiment of the phrase ‘money talks, but wealth whispers’.
Obviously, there are some not-so-subtle classist overtones here, but to ignore that this aesthetic is one that a growing number of people from all backgrounds are seeking to emulate would be to bury our heads in the sand. So, instead, let’s take a closer look at the term, the clothes and the brands that do it best.
What Is Old Money Aesthetic?
People tend to interpret the old-money look in different ways. Some think of loosely tailored Southern European Riviera chic, while others invoke images of British Royals cavorting around country estates in Harris Tweed, Barbour jackets and Derby boots. In the States, the term is tied closely to classic Ivy League style and preppy East Coast labels like Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers.
All of these interpretations are correct, as far as we’re concerned. What really matters are the elements that underpin and unite them. Think classic shapes, clean lines, a reserved approach to branding, minimalism over maximalism, neutral colours, quality fabrics and construction, and versatility.
Key Old Money Brands For Men
Ralph Lauren
East Coast mainstay Ralph Lauren is the godfather of American prep. The New York brand has had an immeasurable impact on men’s fashion. Some of the biggest labels in contemporary menswear owe their entire identity to the Polo line’s signature mix of Americana, collegiate cool and sportswear.It’s about as close as you’ll get to an old-money basics brand, making it a great place to pick up staple pieces like polo, sweats, knitwear and T-shirts.
Brooks Brothers
Founded in 1818, Brooks Brothers is quite possibly the oldest American clothing brand. It’s the originator of the preppy East Coast look, with a range that includes sharp suits, polos and its famous button-down shirts.
Tommy Hilfiger
Founded in the 1980s, Tommy Hilfiger is all about preppy, all-American style, drawing inspiration from sports and sailing. Like Ralph Lauren, it’s a great place for staple pieces such as sweats, tees, and polos.
J.Crew
J.Crew offers a significantly more accessible price point while still delivering on the core tenets of American casual elegance.
This is one of the best places to acquire wardrobe staples without the premium branding tax associated with higher-tier labels.
They provide versatile, understated preppy pieces perfectly suited for building a foundational wardrobe on a sensible budget.
For instance, their classic cotton pique polo shirts often retail for around £50, offering superb value compared to competitors.
You can find excellent quality lambswool sweaters here for approximately £85, perfect for layering during cooler months.
While the quality is not always equivalent to the true luxury tier, the style payoff for the price is undeniable for basics.
Loro Piana
When discussing quiet luxury, Loro Piana is almost always mentioned as the benchmark for understated excellence.
This Italian powerhouse is famous for using the finest cashmere and vicuña, resulting in garments that whisper luxury rather than shouting it.
Their pieces are characterised by exquisite construction and an almost invisible level of branding, appealing directly to those who understand material quality.
Be prepared for significant investment, as even their basic cashmere sweaters can command prices near £800.
A simple Loro Piana polo shirt, made from exceptionally fine jersey, might cost upwards of £550, showcasing their fabric focus.
Acquiring a piece from Loro Piana signals an understanding of true material value beyond mere fashion trends.
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli occupies a similar sphere to Loro Piana, renowned for its luxurious cashmere knitwear and soft Italian tailoring.
It is a favoured choice among high-net-worth individuals looking for elevated, comfortable casual attire.
The brand’s dedication to exquisite fit and the softness of its materials justifies its high positioning in the market.
You should expect to pay substantially for their signature pieces, such as a plain, perfectly cut T-shirt which can easily exceed £500.
Their fine-gauge merino or cashmere cardigans often retail upwards of £1,200, representing a significant investment in everyday luxury.
Look for their neutral-coloured suede jackets for an effortlessly elegant outerwear option that remains subtle.
Zegna
Founded in 1910, Zegna has built a massive reputation on high-end Italian tailoring, providing impeccable suits to discerning clients globally.
Beyond formalwear, Zegna offers upscale casual pieces that embody relaxed Italian sophistication.
Their casual collection includes luxurious linen shirts, often priced around £350, and premium suede driving shoes or loafers.
You can find elegant, lightweight outerwear perfect for transitional weather, such as a fine wool blazer that drapes beautifully, perhaps costing £1,800.
Zegna’s commitment to sourcing and processing high-quality wool ensures their tailoring remains a benchmark for classic style.
Luca Faloni
Luca Faloni offers a superb gateway into Italian luxury knitwear, often at a more attainable price point than the ultra-high-end Italian houses.
This brand specialises in crafting exceptional pieces using traditional Italian techniques and some of the finest available cashmere.
You can purchase a high-quality, medium-gauge cashmere rollneck sweater here for roughly £350.
Their knitted polo shirts provide an elevated alternative to standard cotton versions, often priced around £220.
By focusing on direct-to-consumer models, Luca Faloni manages to deliver premium fabric quality without the extreme mark-ups of some heritage competitors.
Barbour
For outerwear that truly defines British country style, Barbour is indispensable, boasting a history spanning over a century.
The brand is famously favoured by the British Royal Family for its durable, waxed cotton coats and jackets.
A classic Barbour Bedale or Beaufort jacket, which is designed to last decades with proper care, typically costs between £250 and £350.
These jackets are the epitome of practical luxury, improving in character as they age and acquire wear marks.
You should consider having your Barbour jacket re-waxed every few years to maintain its water resistance and appearance, a service that keeps the garment in rotation indefinitely.
Burberry
Burberry remains a stalwart of sartorial elegance, deeply rooted in British heritage since its founding in 1856.
While known for its iconic trench coat and signature check, the brand offers a broad spectrum of refined clothing.
A classic, single-breasted trench coat is a significant investment, often priced around £1,500, but it is a piece that defines timeless outerwear.
For a more subtle nod to the brand, look at their high-quality knitwear or tailored trousers, which avoid overt branding.
Owning a genuine Burberry piece signifies an appreciation for established quality and British manufacturing history.
Dior
Dior has been a cornerstone of Parisian fashion since its establishment in 1946. The brand is celebrated for its meticulous craftsmanship and refined aesthetic, offering impeccably tailored suits and elegant casualwear focusing on understated luxury.
Prices are high, but that comes with the territory when dealing with old-money brands. That said, there are vintage and secondhand bargains to be had if you’re not afraid of a spot of digging.
The Row
Former child megastars Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have one of the most surprising menswear success stories in recent memory. Their label, The Row, debuted in 2006 with a small womenswear collection that has since expanded into an entire range of high-end garments, including menswear.
Practical Application Building Your Quiet Wardrobe
You do not need to bankrupt yourself to adopt the principles of old money style; strategic purchasing is key.
Start by defining your wardrobe gaps based on quality and versatility rather than fleeting trends.
Prioritise essential pieces that will see the most wear, such as outerwear, footwear, and knitwear.
For example, purchasing one excellent Barbour jacket at £300 is infinitely better for this aesthetic than buying three synthetic, logo-heavy jackets at £100 each.
Focus on natural fibres such as wool, cashmere, silk, and high-quality cotton, as these materials age gracefully.
Learn the basic care requirements for these fabrics to maximise the lifespan of your investments.
When shopping for shirts, look at Turnbull & Asser for aspiration but consider Brooks Brothers or even J.Crew for high-quality, everyday Oxford shirts.
Footwear requires diligence; save up for a Goodyear-welted pair from Crockett & Jones rather than purchasing numerous cheaply made, glued-sole shoes.
Master the art of subtle colour coordination, sticking primarily to navy, cream, off-white, camel, forest green, and various shades of grey.
Avoid anything overtly flashy, overly distressed, or heavily branded at all costs.
The goal is to look impeccably put-together, comfortable, and effortlessly refined, suggesting quality that transcends seasonal fashion cycles.
Conclusion
These six old money brands Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Lanificio Colombo, Kiton, Hermes, and Ralph Lauren each bring their unique characteristics to the table. Whether it’s the meticulous craftsmanship of Kiton’s suits, the innovative fabrics of Lanificio Colombo, the relaxed yet luxurious style of Brunello Cucinelli, the understated elegance of Loro Piana, the timeless appeal of Hermes, or the vintage charm of Ralph Lauren, these brands represent the pinnacle of old money style.
